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I thought I would post this as it is a method I have used several times in the last few years after discovering it on the MG-Rovers.org forum so I can't take credit for it as it was originally posted by Empsburna. I have added/removed a few bits though for clarity and to simplify a bit.
Getting Rid of stone chips and scratches...
OK, I have been asked a few times to show how to remove stone chips and scratches from a cars paintwork. The following "how to" shows the process I use to blend in unsightly chips and scrapes.
Correction using this method is around 95%+ and will cost you less than 1/10th of smart repairers prices - plus the satisfaction of doing the job yourself!
Hopefully this will be useful to some people who are willing to give it a go - if not, leave it for a pro - you could be down to metal in minutes, so follow this at your own risk!
The tools used:
2000,2500 or 3000 grit wet and dry sandpaper - leave to soak in soapy water for at least 24 hours before using.
Cocktail sticks (all will become clear!)
Paint & Lacquer touch up pens (pretty important!)
Car shampoo and various cloths.
Polish - I use a hand cutting polish like Meguiars Scratch-X or Sonus SFX-1, a machine polisher can be used if you have one.
Halogen lights/hairdryer (optional in cold weather to help the paint cure)
OK. On with the process.
The area should first be cleaned, where possible clayed with a clay bar and then wiped down to make sure it is free of any dirt and dust.
Once the area is prepped you can mix some paint. I find the easiest way to apply the paint is by mixing it with the lacquer and building it up in layers. Mix equal quantities of the paint and lacquer, I find the lid from a tub of flora is great, give them a mix with a cocktail stick so they are nicely mixed together. This saves having to worry about putting it on again afterwards.
First the area is flatted back around the stone chips to make sure there are no unnecessary raised areas. Make sure you keep the 2000+ grit sandpaper flat to the paintwork and you work in horizontal then vertical passes, making sure it is even. DO NOT press to hard on the paper and use plenty of soapy water or you will be down to primer/metal! BE WARNED! Just press lightly.
First sanding. Notice i'm using the cocktail stick tub to get a flat surface
Once this is complete it is time to fill them in! Working slowly with the end of the cocktail stick gently dab the area with a little of the paint mix until the metal/primer is covered. Don't try and put too much on at this stage as it won't adhere correctly. If possible, gently heat the area up with a hairdryer or halogen light to help get the paint dry quickly. Repeat this process until the chip has been filled and is standing slightly proud of the rest of the paint. This helps to give an even finish once the area is sanded back and polished.
The chips filled and standing proud.
Once you are happy with them and there is plenty of paint to be sanded down it is time to make yourself a cuppa and let the paint go off. If the paint isn't dry then it isn't going to stick, so make sure you give it a while. I often leave it overnight just to be sure.
Sanding back the paint.
OK, so the area is filled. The next step is to remove the built up paint so it is even and level with the rest of the car. Like the previous step, sand down with the 2000+ grit sandpaper using slow and gentle movements with plenty of soapy water as lubrication. If any paint comes off or it is not level, repeat the filling stage again.
Filled and sanded back.
Cleaned and dried - notice the area that has been filled isn't as dull as the rest of the paint? Ready for the polish now (Photo of different area but they will all look similar.)
The above photo shows the area after the filling and sanding stage. The area now should be flat and totally smooth (hence the term "flatting" when talking about preperation after spraying.)
Once the area is smooth it is time to polish. I used a fine cutting compound, Menzerna Final finish as I was saving time using the porter cable polisher. If working by hand a suitable hand cutting paste will be fine such as Scratch-X or SFX-1.
I find when polishing by hand, it can take 2 or 3 goes of hard pressure with the polish and a cotton cloth to get all the sanding marks out - just keep going and all will become shiny!
After the polishing stage - this should leave you with an even and mark free finish.
just visible from close up - 95% correction for 5% of the price of a smart repairer!
I hope that helps someone!
Getting Rid of stone chips and scratches...
OK, I have been asked a few times to show how to remove stone chips and scratches from a cars paintwork. The following "how to" shows the process I use to blend in unsightly chips and scrapes.
Correction using this method is around 95%+ and will cost you less than 1/10th of smart repairers prices - plus the satisfaction of doing the job yourself!
Hopefully this will be useful to some people who are willing to give it a go - if not, leave it for a pro - you could be down to metal in minutes, so follow this at your own risk!
The tools used:
2000,2500 or 3000 grit wet and dry sandpaper - leave to soak in soapy water for at least 24 hours before using.
Cocktail sticks (all will become clear!)
Paint & Lacquer touch up pens (pretty important!)
Car shampoo and various cloths.
Polish - I use a hand cutting polish like Meguiars Scratch-X or Sonus SFX-1, a machine polisher can be used if you have one.
Halogen lights/hairdryer (optional in cold weather to help the paint cure)
OK. On with the process.
The area should first be cleaned, where possible clayed with a clay bar and then wiped down to make sure it is free of any dirt and dust.
Once the area is prepped you can mix some paint. I find the easiest way to apply the paint is by mixing it with the lacquer and building it up in layers. Mix equal quantities of the paint and lacquer, I find the lid from a tub of flora is great, give them a mix with a cocktail stick so they are nicely mixed together. This saves having to worry about putting it on again afterwards.
First the area is flatted back around the stone chips to make sure there are no unnecessary raised areas. Make sure you keep the 2000+ grit sandpaper flat to the paintwork and you work in horizontal then vertical passes, making sure it is even. DO NOT press to hard on the paper and use plenty of soapy water or you will be down to primer/metal! BE WARNED! Just press lightly.
First sanding. Notice i'm using the cocktail stick tub to get a flat surface
Once this is complete it is time to fill them in! Working slowly with the end of the cocktail stick gently dab the area with a little of the paint mix until the metal/primer is covered. Don't try and put too much on at this stage as it won't adhere correctly. If possible, gently heat the area up with a hairdryer or halogen light to help get the paint dry quickly. Repeat this process until the chip has been filled and is standing slightly proud of the rest of the paint. This helps to give an even finish once the area is sanded back and polished.
The chips filled and standing proud.
Once you are happy with them and there is plenty of paint to be sanded down it is time to make yourself a cuppa and let the paint go off. If the paint isn't dry then it isn't going to stick, so make sure you give it a while. I often leave it overnight just to be sure.
Sanding back the paint.
OK, so the area is filled. The next step is to remove the built up paint so it is even and level with the rest of the car. Like the previous step, sand down with the 2000+ grit sandpaper using slow and gentle movements with plenty of soapy water as lubrication. If any paint comes off or it is not level, repeat the filling stage again.
Filled and sanded back.
Cleaned and dried - notice the area that has been filled isn't as dull as the rest of the paint? Ready for the polish now (Photo of different area but they will all look similar.)
The above photo shows the area after the filling and sanding stage. The area now should be flat and totally smooth (hence the term "flatting" when talking about preperation after spraying.)
Once the area is smooth it is time to polish. I used a fine cutting compound, Menzerna Final finish as I was saving time using the porter cable polisher. If working by hand a suitable hand cutting paste will be fine such as Scratch-X or SFX-1.
I find when polishing by hand, it can take 2 or 3 goes of hard pressure with the polish and a cotton cloth to get all the sanding marks out - just keep going and all will become shiny!
After the polishing stage - this should leave you with an even and mark free finish.
just visible from close up - 95% correction for 5% of the price of a smart repairer!
I hope that helps someone!