Would you still buy a DS3-R ?

[S2k]

Hi all, forum noobie here!

I was out today looking at DS3's and found the garage had a DS3-R for sale which I thought was a fantastic looking car! I came home and thought I better have a look on an owners forum to check what people think and have been pretty shocked by the problems you all seem to be facing with engine failures! Is it as bad as the posts here make it seem? To an outsider it seems like pretty much all the owners are getting issues once the engine gets over 20k miles? The one I am looking at is on 18k which is feeling like a ticking time bomb now!

Also, if not the DS3-R, then which engine would you recommend? It needs to be petrol as I only do low miles..

Thanks for any help/advice! :bow:

[Ollie92]

I've had mine almost 2 years now and it's still on it's original engine, bought it at 6k miles now just passed 28k.

I get the occasional stutter but never anything more serious, I think they're hit and miss from what i've seen you just need to ask yourself whether you think it's worth owning the car knowing about the issues (you could always look at getting a catch can fitted as they seem to fix the issue).

Also i'd post the reg of it on here though as someone might know if that one has had any previous problems.

[THP]

I've always wanted one but have been put off with the reliability horror stories. That said, I've had an 11 plate THP from new with only one problem and that seems to be an commonly unreliable engine.

Like Ollie92 said, the turbo petrols do seem to be a bit hit and miss.

[S2k]

Thanks for the replies so far!

I was just looking at the cost of an extended Citroen warrantee and think that would be an absolute must if I did decide to get one of these!! Is the warrantee good or do they resist accepting blame for these engine issues? (Looks like it's around £250/yr when I put a DS3-R into the online form.. )
I will be test driving it on Friday, and will make sure to write the plate down to post here. The sales guy said the previous owner was an older gentleman.. It's white and has no graphics on it as he didn't want them on the car. This is Sunbury/West London area.. Sound like anyone here? :confused:

[gaz_dsport]

I test drove 1.. on test drive boom... In end settle for a thp same engine little bit less bhp.. a little bit more reliable than the racing.. but still has it problems... And obv don't have the seats and kit.. but it was a pretty good compramise.. still a fun and playfull car.. just not as much bhp as the racing but like I said was a good compromise for me.anywau

[THP]

I paid £250 for their extended warranty for a year and I've had the front anti-roll bar replaced under it, no problem. My dealership in Bolton is really helpful and they've never argued with anything I've gone to them for.

[Chris_Blue]

you could always look at getting a catch can fitted as they seem to fix the issue.

Installing a catch can for £150 wont cure any issues, it just may help a bit.
Had a catch can on mine for a good 8k and the inlet valves still sooted up.

WMI is best cure for the inlet valves issue

My theory (For what its worth) is that the Racings, whilst basically the same THP engine, generate more heat with the extra power, and that stretches components, and fluids, to the max.

[Ragnarok]

I have owned a Racing for couple of years. I am probably one of the worst examples there can be. Rebuilt engine, failed clutch, issues with HPFP, etc etc.

I like Racing, I wouldn't keep it if I didn't. Would I buy it again? Nope. The reason I keep it is I know it thoroughly and have fixed most of the pitfall myself.

If I were to buy one, first thing I would do were to replace the pistons.

http://www.ds3club.co.uk/showthread....056#post177056

[nutbolt]

Buying an extended Citroën warranty is a must for a second hand car purchase where you don't know it's full history and it buys you time until catch cans fitted. Just remember to remove cans when taking car to Citroën or it would void warranty. When I bought my 150 thp second hand it had 12 days remaining on it's original warranty so extending it was the first thing I did. It's only got 11k miles on the clock so going on here carbonisation happens around 20k miles however I am hoping the cans collect the oil and water vapour as the exhaust seems to be giving excessive water vapours in the mornings from cold. As previously said it will never stop the carbon deposits fully as it's more to do with burnt fuel blowby escaping the valves and collecting under them.

[cyclone]

Buying an extended Citroën warranty is a must for a second hand car purchase where you don't know it's full history and it buys you time until catch cans fitted. Just remember to remove cans when taking car to Citroën or it would void warranty. When I bought my 150 thp second hand it had 12 days remaining on it's original warranty so extending it was the first thing I did. It's only got 11k miles on the clock so going on here carbonisation happens around 20k miles however I am hoping the cans collect the oil and water vapour as the exhaust seems to be giving excessive water vapours in the mornings from cold. As previously said it will never stop the carbon deposits fully as it's more to do with burnt fuel blowby escaping the valves and collecting under them.

No it has mainly to do with the oil vapour from the PVC carbonizing in the intake chamber that is not being washed off by fuel like a normal engine as the fuel is directly injected into the cylinder. The catch can is a great step but none of them are 100% efficient so that is why you still get the build up even with a can as you say just slower. Most of what you collect in the can is water and in itself harmless but some is oil and that makes it worth while. Every little bit of oil collected slows that evil process down so +1 for the can.

[nutbolt]

No it has mainly to do with the oil vapour from the PVC carbonizing in the intake chamber that is not being washed off by fuel like a normal engine as the fuel is directly injected into the cylinder. The catch can is a great step but none of them are 100% efficient so that is why you still get the build up even with a can as you say just slower. Most of what you collect in the can is water and in itself harmless but some is oil and that makes it worth while. Every little bit of oil collected slows that evil process down so +1 for the can.

If you pcv delete the rear you stop oil vapour going to the intake yes. The pressure increases on the right side vent pipe going to turbo of which you would need can fitted. However you still get sooty deposits on the valves. I am waiting on two catch cans being delivered to stop the gunk going to engine.

[Chris_Blue]

I am waiting on two catch cans being delivered to stop the gunk going to engine.

Let us know how you get on with fitting the rear can. Have been toying with the idea of fitting one myself, and have sourced the reinforced pipe to prevent flattening under vacuum, and also got a 19mm (Much cheaper than the Saikou michi at £110 plus) sized outlet catch can too, as well as sussing out where to put it. The area around where the pipe connects to the top of the engine is very tight, so don't fancy the job at all.
Also the connector on the end of the OEM pipe doesn't seem the same as the front

[cyclone]

2 cans is a good way to go. Blocking the rear leads to higher crankcase pressure that caused smoking on a lot of cars. Remember it's not going to stop just slow down.

[Chris_Blue]

Have you gone the 2 can route Cyclone?

[cyclone]

Trying out running both pvc lines into 1 can then back into the intake before the turbo. The port for the rear line on the intake manifold is caped. Been that way for 6 months or so and every thing is working fine.