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Whilst typing up a guide for a turbo upgrade on my DS3 I thought it would be good to post up my progress so far. It's relatively easy to do and much cheaper than a hybrid turbo.
The 1.6 8V HDI engine is fitted to vehicles after 2010 and comes with three different power options. There are 75 BHP and 92 BHP models which both use the same injectors, turbo and ECU. These come fitted with a Bosch EDC17C10 ECU and a Mitsubishi TD02 waste gated turbo charger. The 75 BHP model generally only comes in the Partner and Berlingo vans.
There is also a 115 BHP version which uses a Siemens SID807 ECU, Siemens injectors and a Garrett GTD1244VZ VNT turbo charger.
In the UK all of the 1.6 8V engines I have seen come fitted with a DPF with a lambda sensor, differential pressure sensor and temperature sensors.
As the engine is the same it’s easy to upgrade the turbo on the 92 BHP model to use the turbo from the 115 BHP model. The exhaust manifold is the same, and everything else is ‘almost’ the same so it’s relatively easy to do.
Here’s a photo showing a comparison of the two turbos, the Garrett VNT turbo (right) is clearly a lot bigger, but thanks to the VNT system it still spools relatively early and can give good top end figures.
The position of the oil drain and the oil feed is the same, so it’s quite an easy conversion.
The first step of the conversion is to remove the heat shields around the turbo and the DPF, you’ll also need to remove the DPF and get a straight through pipe made. All the unwanted sensors in the exhaust can be written out in a remap.
Remove the intake pipe which is held on with a 10mm bolt, and also the turbo outlet to intercooler pipe which has two 10mm bolts and the jubilee clip uses a 7mm socket..
The exhaust clamp uses a 16mm nut at the bottom and then you ccan use a tool as shown above to remove the v band clamp.
Loosen the allen head bolt which is used for the turbo oil feed.
The next step is to loosen the 4 11mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. If these are tight you might want to join two spanners together to get some extra leverage.
With the four nuts off you can slide the turbo outwards and then you’ll be able to easily see the turbo oil drain. Loosen the 7mm nut on the jubilee clamp and then pop the hose off. The turbo will now come out.
Before you refit the turbo you will need the correct oil pipe (part number 63846), as shown here the pipe for the GTD1244VZ is completely different. I would also recommend fitting new banjo bolts. Don’t remove the strainer from the lower bolt, it’s a filter and also an oil restrictor, removing it will cause future problems.
Refitting the new turbo is exactly the opposite of removing the old turbo. It doesn’t hurt to put some oil in the turbo so it doesn’t start up dry.
When you come to connect the plug to the turbo actuator position sensor you will find that it has been designed to prevent you from connecting it to the wrong turbo. To get the extra length on the wire you simply need to remove the 90 degree collar that is clipped on to the wire.
The intake pipe is also designed in a way that you can’t accidentally fit the wrong turbo. With a hack saw or a cutting disc you just need to remove a small piece of plastic to allow the pipe to clamp down flat to the turbo inlet.
Once the new turbo is refitted it will look quite standard.
As the intake pipe is slightly too short I chose to hold both ends with jubilee clamps so that it couldn’t fall off. The standard setup just clips on without and clamps.
I chose to put some heat wrap around the turbo outlet pipe so that it wouldn’t absorb hear from the turbine side of the turbo. If you do this you want the shiny side facing out to reflect heat. If you wrap the turbo you want the shiny side inwards to keep heat inside.
And now the hard part begins. You’re going to have some faults when you start up as the turbo position sensor uses a different calibration and that will be picked up by the ECU. You can’t really use or drive the car until the turbo has been set up properly to avoid damaging it.
The remapping is very complex to get this turbo to work nicely on this ECU. On my project car it took almost 150 different remaps with different tweaks and different experiments to get it running perfectly. The turbo spools very early (before 1750 RPM) and gives great low down torque and also lots of high end power. The standard TD02 turbo does drive nicely in the low revs but it really runs out of puff quickly. With this turbo upgrade it makes a big difference to driveability.
The next plans in store are potentially an intercooler upgrade, I've found that on the road the intake temperature isn't far above ambient, but on the dyno the intercooler heats up quickly. I think this is mainly due to not enough air flow to direct air over the intercooler which is positioned to the side.
I'll try to get dyno result with the standard intercooler and the uprated intercooler to see the difference it makes.
The 1.6 8V HDI engine is fitted to vehicles after 2010 and comes with three different power options. There are 75 BHP and 92 BHP models which both use the same injectors, turbo and ECU. These come fitted with a Bosch EDC17C10 ECU and a Mitsubishi TD02 waste gated turbo charger. The 75 BHP model generally only comes in the Partner and Berlingo vans.
There is also a 115 BHP version which uses a Siemens SID807 ECU, Siemens injectors and a Garrett GTD1244VZ VNT turbo charger.
In the UK all of the 1.6 8V engines I have seen come fitted with a DPF with a lambda sensor, differential pressure sensor and temperature sensors.
As the engine is the same it’s easy to upgrade the turbo on the 92 BHP model to use the turbo from the 115 BHP model. The exhaust manifold is the same, and everything else is ‘almost’ the same so it’s relatively easy to do.
Here’s a photo showing a comparison of the two turbos, the Garrett VNT turbo (right) is clearly a lot bigger, but thanks to the VNT system it still spools relatively early and can give good top end figures.
The position of the oil drain and the oil feed is the same, so it’s quite an easy conversion.
The first step of the conversion is to remove the heat shields around the turbo and the DPF, you’ll also need to remove the DPF and get a straight through pipe made. All the unwanted sensors in the exhaust can be written out in a remap.
Remove the intake pipe which is held on with a 10mm bolt, and also the turbo outlet to intercooler pipe which has two 10mm bolts and the jubilee clip uses a 7mm socket..
The exhaust clamp uses a 16mm nut at the bottom and then you ccan use a tool as shown above to remove the v band clamp.
Loosen the allen head bolt which is used for the turbo oil feed.
The next step is to loosen the 4 11mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. If these are tight you might want to join two spanners together to get some extra leverage.
With the four nuts off you can slide the turbo outwards and then you’ll be able to easily see the turbo oil drain. Loosen the 7mm nut on the jubilee clamp and then pop the hose off. The turbo will now come out.
Before you refit the turbo you will need the correct oil pipe (part number 63846), as shown here the pipe for the GTD1244VZ is completely different. I would also recommend fitting new banjo bolts. Don’t remove the strainer from the lower bolt, it’s a filter and also an oil restrictor, removing it will cause future problems.
Refitting the new turbo is exactly the opposite of removing the old turbo. It doesn’t hurt to put some oil in the turbo so it doesn’t start up dry.
When you come to connect the plug to the turbo actuator position sensor you will find that it has been designed to prevent you from connecting it to the wrong turbo. To get the extra length on the wire you simply need to remove the 90 degree collar that is clipped on to the wire.
The intake pipe is also designed in a way that you can’t accidentally fit the wrong turbo. With a hack saw or a cutting disc you just need to remove a small piece of plastic to allow the pipe to clamp down flat to the turbo inlet.
Once the new turbo is refitted it will look quite standard.
As the intake pipe is slightly too short I chose to hold both ends with jubilee clamps so that it couldn’t fall off. The standard setup just clips on without and clamps.
I chose to put some heat wrap around the turbo outlet pipe so that it wouldn’t absorb hear from the turbine side of the turbo. If you do this you want the shiny side facing out to reflect heat. If you wrap the turbo you want the shiny side inwards to keep heat inside.
And now the hard part begins. You’re going to have some faults when you start up as the turbo position sensor uses a different calibration and that will be picked up by the ECU. You can’t really use or drive the car until the turbo has been set up properly to avoid damaging it.
The remapping is very complex to get this turbo to work nicely on this ECU. On my project car it took almost 150 different remaps with different tweaks and different experiments to get it running perfectly. The turbo spools very early (before 1750 RPM) and gives great low down torque and also lots of high end power. The standard TD02 turbo does drive nicely in the low revs but it really runs out of puff quickly. With this turbo upgrade it makes a big difference to driveability.
The next plans in store are potentially an intercooler upgrade, I've found that on the road the intake temperature isn't far above ambient, but on the dyno the intercooler heats up quickly. I think this is mainly due to not enough air flow to direct air over the intercooler which is positioned to the side.
I'll try to get dyno result with the standard intercooler and the uprated intercooler to see the difference it makes.
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