Homemade Cold air Induction kit for Hdi90: part two

[MortenT]

Hi All
Well Zack really got me thinking, and testing.
It turns out that driving around, but keeping the car running, slow or fast, keeps the system cold.
But if I drive through the city, with lots of stops, the system heats up and the power and throttle response decreases.
And I am now sure that the 180 degree bend doesn’t help the airflow.

So I thought, why not make it really simple, something like the Forge kit.
This is what I came up with.



This is much better than the previous kit, the warming up is significantly reduced.
Both the power and the throttle response have improved.
But I must say that you won’t get the full package without a remap or a diesel chip.

I have installed a Race Chip Pro http://www.racechip.de/racechip-chip...AP-3931-r.html
Please don´t rip of my head, it´s my only option as I am leasing the car.
It has adjustment for power and duration of power according to RPM separately, (nice) and the price is right 229 Euro.
I am very happy about it, it makes the car much more drivable and give´s a better mileage, but more about that later.


For the Induction project you will need:

One pcs. of Straight Silicone Reducer 63-51mm £11.44
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Straight-R...#ht_1102wt_905

One pcs. of 100mm Straight Silicone coupling connector 16mm £5.95
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100mm-x-Si...#ht_1102wt_905

One pcs. of 100mm Straight Silicone coupling connector 76mm £5.95
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100mm-x-Si...#ht_1102wt_905

One pcs. of 90degre Silicone Elbow 22mm £7.06
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree-...#ht_1102wt_905

One pcs. of ASH Carbon Airbox, outlet 76mm £54.95
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-...item43a06195cc


Total £85.35

You find the best price for all this on the AP MotorStore eBay Shop, however if you don’t want to by the Hose Clips in 5 or 10pcs. bags
You find the best price on the AP MotorStore online Store. http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/

JCS STAINLESS STEEL HOSE CLIPS:
One pcs. of 50-70mm
One pcs. of 60-80mm
Two pcs. of 70-90mm

Further more you need a short length (300mm) of 76mm air duct to go from the Air box inlet, to somewhere under the headlight.
And a 20mm piece of, Ø 19mm ø18mm stainless steel tube with a curved flange.

Here is the “How to”:

When you are cutting Silicone tubes, tighten a Hose clip around the tube and use it as a cutting ruler.

First you cut 35mm of the 63mm end of the Straight Silicone Reducer 63-51mm
Then you cut a 19mm hole in the 51mm end, like on the photo.



Then you take the Ø 19mm ø18mm stainless steel tube, apply a little black Silicone on the flange, and mount it from the inside.





Next take a 25mm of length of 16mm Straight Silicone hose, and cut it to fit the outer diameter of the small end of the reducer.



Then place a 51mm exhaust pipe in the reducer to support the stainless steel tube, apply a little black Silicone between the stainless steel tube and the reducer and press the 16mm Straight Silicone hose in place. (Smoothen the excess silicone).





Now your reducer T piece should look like this.



You could of curse use a 60mm T piece(cut the spout down to 10mm), a 30mm length of 51mm Straight Silicone hose (cut it in an angle on the inside of one end) and a 30mm length of 16mm Straight Silicone hose (cut it to fit the inner diameter of the 60mm T piece).



And put it together like this (use black silicone as glue)





Next cut a 40mm length of 76mm Straight Silicone hose and a 27mm length of 63mm Straight Silicone hose.
Cut them both in an angle to make a slight bend between the air box and the MAF sensor. (Cut an angle on the inside of one end of the 27mm length of 63mm Straight Silicone hose)



Put it together like this.



Then you take the “ASH Carbon Airbox” and cut half of the inlet and half of the outlet, to ensure a tight fit in the engine compartment.



Remember to smoothen the edges, and free everything from dust and burrs, you don’t want any debris hitting the turbo.



Then you put everything together as in the photo at the top.
Attach the MAF sensor to the air box and the T reducer to the MAF sensor, don’t tighten anything to much yet.

Now it´s time to strip the engine compartment.
Remove the standard filter and all the tubing

Fitting the Cold air Induction kit:

Place the intake air duct under the headlight, and push it as far as you can towards the hollowness behind the front bumper.
Move the wires from the battery to the side, and toggle in the whole unit between the air duct and the turbo, and tighten it to the turbo with a Hose clip.
Attach the intake air duct to the air box.
Attach the Crankcase Breather Hose sensor to the T piece reducer.
Cut the 22mm / 90degre Silicone Elbow to fit between the Crankcase Breather Hose sensor and the engine.
Rotate the reducer and the MAF sensor to fit perfectly, and tighten all the hose clips.

Now you will notice that the wire for the MAF sensor is too short. :mad:

You could make an extension wire if you could get hold of the connectors, I couldn't. :confused:
So the way I am dealing with this is as follows:
Remove the lid of the wire box. (Be careful the plastic will easily brake)
Loosen the wires for the MAF sensor / Crankcase Breather Hose sensor connectors and wrap them with insulating tape.



Make a cut out in the edge of the wire box as in the photo.



Place the wire in cut out, and close the lid.



Now the wire for the MAF sensor fits.

The direction of airflow I am using is:
Inside of the filter cone facing the engine.
But I don’t know if that is the right way, I have been mailing AP MotorStore, and they still haven’t answered.

The only thing left is to enjoy your work

[ZACK]

Awesome ! Looks much better too !

[Heaton]

Surely this would have more chance of impacting on warranty than getting one fitted? Or is this easier to remove when your car goes in for its service etc so they are none the wiser?

[Czar]

Surely this would have more chance of impacting on warranty than getting one fitted? Or is this easier to remove when your car goes in for its service etc so they are none the wiser?

Do you really think they (the dealer/Citroen) will be none the wiser ? This is a public forum!!

[MortenT]

Thank you Zack

My plan is to remove it when the car goes in for service, it´s pretty easy.
I don’t know of any aftermarket Induction kit´s that will fit the Hdi, please inform me.

I do not hope that my Citroen dealer, is checking the Internet.:confused:

[cyclone]

Let's see, will his dealer of all the dealers in Denmark keep a close watch on the UK forums to catch an anonymous MortenT by the look of an engine bay, sans home made intake?

[Jay2013]

Hi there Morten T just want to know where you can buy the 19mm 18mm stainless steel tube from?

[MortenT]

Hi Jay2013

The stainless steel tube is made from scratch, a piece of tube and a piece of sheet I had lying around welded together.
If you can´t do it yourself I would suggest the second approach:

A 60mm T piece(cut the spout down to 10mm), a 30mm length of 51mm Straight Silicone hose (cut it in an angle on the inside of one end) and a 30mm length of 16mm Straight Silicone hose (cut it to fit the inner diameter of the 60mm T piece)




Hi all
Actually I asked my dealer about the warranty, and he said leave it on it looks nice and it won’t harm anything.

[Jay2013]

Thanks Morten T does this make any noise change when driving? Also do you have Instagram?

Thanks jay

[MortenT]

Hi Jay

It sounds a little different, mostly due to the more direct air flow and secondly be curse the standard filter acts as insulation over the engine.
The greatest advantage is that you can get the full potential with a remap or a diesel chip.
A friend of mine uses the same diesel chip as I do, but he can not adjust it nearly as much as I can due to the more restrictive standard air filter.

And no, I don't have Instagram

[Ds3norwich]

Got any how to guides on a cold intake for 120vti?

[lfcrule1972]

Need to look at this from home as none of the pics are showing up at work