Performance modifications technical discussion.

[Fabian]

Same here, when received my new DS3 I directly took it for an long trip at various roads.
Tried to change gears and RPM as much as possible and when the oil was at nice temperatures
after about 25min driving I also pushed it to the “Red line”

Haven’t done this on the track, but the car has run over the whole RPM range.
Also didn’t changed the Oil directly, but did this after 20.000km instead of 30.000km.

Untill now, I don’t need to fill up oil between the indicated service points.
Also the car is running nice and no problems at all till now.
Power output was also good when did the first run after 4500km (169hp and 280nm)

[Chris_Blue]

Good info Czar- Thanks.
You must get through a lot of oil. Does oil degrade that quick when pushed to the limit then?
You say run the engine throughout the rev range from minute 1, but surely its best for everything to be up to temperature before throttling it (So to speak)
Maybe not for the benefit of the Turbo, but the engine/ oil lubricant which hasnt reached working temperature?

[Czar]

Good info Czar- Thanks.
You must get through a lot of oil. Does oil degrade that quick when pushed to the limit then?
You say run the engine throughout the rev range from minute 1, but surely its best for everything to be up to temperature before throttling it (So to speak)
Maybe not for the benefit of the Turbo, but the engine/ oil lubricant which hasnt reached working temperature?

Morning Chris,

Oil is simply a consumable and should be changed at the very least annually, whether your DS3 see's just street use or indeed the odd track day, what the factory and dealers tell us, is utter B****cks, and they know it, it's a marketing strategy albeit a poor one, that tends to backfire on them and cause more warranty claims, all for the sake of, informing potential new customers that, their intended vehicle purchase doesn't require any kind of service, including oil changes for at least 20,000 miles, and as for spark plugs well, thats a laughable replacement interval anywhere between 20 - 100,000 miles before replacement, giving false security to the intended purchasing new customer, that the particular brand vehicle will cost less to run, due to these absolutely crazy stretched out service intervals, but yet then part with lets say approximately £300 for a TLC pack, £300 for what may turn out to be 1 oil change generally 2 at the most, as people tend to change their cars every 2-4 years, and given the general annual mileage of 12,000 miles, that's a lot for what maybe as little as 4 litres of oil and a few pence oil filter!

Oil is the engines crucial lifeline (blood supply) and although oil technology has vastly improved and continues to improve, it's so cheap I just can't understand why people don't see it as a necessary prevention when going to the track for a fun day out, on track you'll push your engine pressures and temperatures to beyond anything your engine ever see's through regular street driving, so look after it, treat it, and it will look after you!

Yes I go through lots of oil/oil filter I change my oil every 5-6,000 miles, that said, if i'm having a track day, then I change my oil/oil filter at the track before going out, and once again before leaving the track, yes that's 2 oil/oil filter changes in 1 day, I also change spark plugs too, I use racing oil for the track (the only place it should be used) and a high end nano technology oil for the street.

As for driving off immediately after starting, obviously I don't mean you should red line it straight away, but don't be afraid to use the RPM range, what I do, immediately after starting is, 1st gear to say 3-4,000 RPM shift into 2nd and repeat, shift in 3rd reduce RPM to say 2-2,500 and then use a good deal of throttle to load the cylinders with pressure whilst increasing the RPM range to anywhere between 3,500-5,000 this will generate heat very quickly, while keeping speeds legal, and then vary the throttle loading with different gear selections, simple.

[Chris_Blue]

Afternoon Czar- Great stuff- thanks again
So the more oil changes the better. Everday driving say 6000 miles or 6 months then- with new filter
Sounds sensible

[Chris_Blue]

Czar- so why is there so much of a performance increase (Not measured yet) with only replacing the OEM exhaust, with a sports cat - 200 cpsi- and a larger bore pipe.

Can understand the pressures are freer on a less restrictive catalytic converter, but what does the increase in bore achieve, or is that just helpful with future performance modifications. Is it all about back pressure?

[DickiJ]

Less back pressure on a turbo car allows the turbo to spin more freely

[Ragnarok]

Anyone knows if it's worth to upgrade the downpipe (to 200cc? What's the stock one even?) on a Racing? Or just go with de-cat which is a lot cheaper... any performance differences?

[Fabian]

Yes, better is to go for the decat and an remap!

Don't know the regulations in Finland, but here in Holland you won't get trough the MOT with decat!
That's why I'm going for the Milltek Downpipe + 200 CPSI Sportcat.

The standard Downpipe consists out of two parts, 1x 600cpsi at the top and 1x 400cpsi in the lower part.

Gains with the Milltek are around 5-6hp and much better flowing / spool up from the Turbo.
Torque will be a bit lower due to less backpressure, but you'll have the torque earlier and longer!

[Ragnarok]

Ok, here you have to inspect your car every year (a new car is free of this procedure for the first 3 years). Cat is required with a TÜV approval, though it depends on the inspector if he notices the swap, as long as the emissions are fine

I was considering getting this one, but I am not sure if I want to go through this swapping every year. Did it with my Subaru and it was kinda of a pain in the ass...
http://www.italiatec.com/catalog/rag...8787dfb35657a1

As I want to keep the stock exhaust for now, I will probably lean towards either of these plug 'n' play solutions
http://www.hangar111.com/shop/citroe...-catalyst.html
http://www.italiatec.com/catalog/rag...8787dfb35657a1

Next month plans:
-Forge induction
-Forge hard pipe kit
-Remap to ethanol
-Intercooler (Forge, Hangar111, or a Greek one below)
http://eshop.kanteres.gr/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=53
-plus maybe downpipe

[Ragnarok]

Ordered IC from Clemens and de-cat downpipe from Ragazzon
http://www.italiatec.com/catalog/rag...8787dfb35657a1

If anyone has some kind of DIY guide for downpipe change, I would appreciate

[Fabian]

After fitting you'll directly need a remap! So please also be aware of that!

[Ragnarok]

Hi,

I have already ordered the remap (ethanol) from etuners as I stated in the earlier post
Just wish there was some sort of guide for the removal as I do not want to unnecessarily disassemble the whole front part to pieces

[BeefMasta]

Ordered IC from Clemens and de-cat downpipe from Ragazzon
http://www.italiatec.com/catalog/rag...8787dfb35657a1

If anyone has some kind of DIY guide for downpipe change, I would appreciate

PM Jamie@SPTuning, he should be able to help.

[Fabian]

Hi,

I have already ordered the remap (ethanol) from etuners as I stated in the earlier post
Just wish there was some sort of guide for the removal as I do not want to unnecessarily disassemble the whole front part to pieces

Here you go
It's for a mini, but that's almost the same!

Starting from page 15
http://az79640.vo.msecnd.net/akrapov...987b0971c8.pdf

[Ragnarok]

Here you go
It's for a mini, but that's almost the same!

Starting from page 15
http://az79640.vo.msecnd.net/akrapov...987b0971c8.pdf

Dank u zeer!