HPFP on the THP

[Drummond Base]

Here's my experience from the BMW MINI side of things, take the Cooper S and JCW models, same engine, different HP outputs, now the JCW model is advertised as having a different cylinder head, and valves, yet when I bought a complete brand new JCW engine for my track project BMW MINI, upon a side by side engine strip down, my Cooper S and JCW engines, they were identical in everyway, I measured everything, weighed everything and noted the identifying individual codes, yet there was no different cylinder head or indeed valves, yet the manufacturers blah blah said so, yet actual physical proof by me, told a completely different story, and it's fact to this day, and I published my findings world wide too.

This happens in the PC component world constantly, two laptops may say they have different chips in but invariably they are the same just clocked differently, the chips are then hardcoded with a specific model number but in effect they the same.
A few years ago i had an Intel E6300 (1.8ghz £100) running happily at 3.4ghz, a speed that would have cost me £800 if id have paid for a CPU supplied at that speed.

[Jamie@SPTuning]

The fuel filter is part of the intank fuel pump, the HPFP does not fail due to particle contamination, the HPFP develops an internal hairline fracture in the piston valley, the fuel injectors are a multi hole with a directional spray pattern, and the culprit for the common cause of fuel injector blockages of some of the holes is the sticky gummy carbon deposit, which collects on the nozzle during reversion.

Here is one of my Motirsport fuel injectors for the THP showing the multi hole nozzle.

Oh my....[emoji7]

[Jamie@SPTuning]

Changed to new HPFP few days ago and it is very smooth now on idle and no misfire codes anymore. But I still have as you said "very small tremor on idle that must last a gnats, every couple minutes or so"...
Did you find what was the culprit or we will have to settle to it as the best and smoothest possible idle?

I have recently cleaned intake valves, all filters&oils, spark plugs...in last 2 days deleted the rear PCV with Citroen dealer plugs and installed the new HPFP. The car has 64k km.

Also after consulting numerous local "specialists" what was the solution to the lumpy idle and misfire codes that I received (P1337,P1340,P0171, P0087) and car getting into limp mode,
I have listened to experienced Jamies advice/opinion on this forum and have changed to new HPFP and he was correct 100%! Jamie I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge with other members and helping me out
with my problem.

Great to see it fixed, reset all the adaptions now and check fuel trims after a week or so see how they're settling in.

[Ragnar]

Hello,

I have a question about the EP6DTS from the 207 GTI.

I just bought my GTI and I will soon transform it into a rally car but first I would like that everything works fine on the car.

Following Peugeot Sport the high pressure fuel pump must provide +-60 bars (870 PSI) at idle and +- 120 bars (1740 PSI) at 4000 rpm with no load.

"Pour contrôler le bon état de fonctionnement des pompes basse et haute pression, nous vous conseillons
de vérifier les valeurs suivantes dans les paramètres de l’écran du pilote :
- P_FUEL à environ 6 Bars contact mis et moteur à l’arrêt.
- P_FUEL à environ 60 Bars contact mis et moteur stabilisé au ralenti.
- P_FUEL à environ 120 Bars contact mis et moteur stabilisé à 4000 tr/min à vide."

"To check the good shape of the fuel pumps, low and high pressure, we advice you to verify the following values on the driver's display :
- P_FUEL around 6 bars (87PSI) with ignition on and engine off
- P_FUEL around 60 bars (870PSI) with ignition on and engine idling.
- P FUEL around 120 bars (1740PSI) with ignition on and engine stabilised at 4000 rpm with no load."
(translated by me, sorry if my english is not perfect. I hope these informations will help people who are searching for these values on the internet)


I have collected the following values with my ELM327 device :

Engine temperature : 57 °C
- Low pressure pump : 10 bars (145 PSI)
- HP pump at idling : 48,3 bars (696 PSI)

- HP pump at 3000 rpm with no load : 59 bars (855 PSI)

- HP pump at 4200 rpm with no load : 78 bars (1131 PSI)
- HP pump at 5500 rpm with no load : 115 bars (1667 PSI)

Has someone already looked at these values on his car ? How do these compares to mines ?
Wath do you think about the values I've collected ? Do I have to change the HP pump ?

Many thx guys !

[Jamie@SPTuning]

Looks ok to me

[V3nn3tj3]

I got mine from a breaker. It came from a 2012 DS3 THP 156, i own a 2010 THP 150. I removed it from the car. I to was surprised that the numbers didn't match. Bit seems to be doing the job just fine...

[V3nn3tj3]

Also, they don't all have a fuel filter. Mine doesn't, the one i broke down did. They sit under the car on the passenger (you're driver) side before the rear wheel. Some say they are fitted inside the fuel pump and don't need replacing. But i bet if you have low fuel pressure before HPFP it's probably going to be a clogged up filter and not the pump itself.

[Barola]

Great to see it fixed, reset all the adaptions now and check fuel trims after a week or so see how they're settling in.

Unfortunately still have the small tremor on idle while engine cold, a lot less tremor when engine hot. Intake valves cleaned 1k miles ago. Chain has been changed by the dealer some 17k miles ago and no rattle.
Engine oil consumption very high of 1l per 1000km or even more. Plan on changing the valve seals, decarbonizing pistons and changing the chain assembly in a very near future to be on the safe side.
Otherwise car runs smooth. What could possible be the cause of this small tremor?
How should I check the fuel trims via OBD2 scanner and what to look for?

[Drummond Base]

Unfortunately still have the small tremor on idle while engine cold, a lot less tremor when engine hot. Intake valves cleaned 1k miles ago. Chain has been changed by the dealer some 17k miles ago and no rattle.
Engine oil consumption very high of 1l per 1000km or even more. Plan on changing the valve seals, decarbonizing pistons and changing the chain assembly in a very near future to be on the safe side.
Otherwise car runs smooth. What could possible be the cause of this small tremor?
How should I check the fuel trims via OBD2 scanner and what to look for?

Have you looks at the plugs or coil packs?

[Ragnar]

Unfortunately still have the small tremor on idle while engine cold, a lot less tremor when engine hot. Intake valves cleaned 1k miles ago. Chain has been changed by the dealer some 17k miles ago and no rattle.
Engine oil consumption very high of 1l per 1000km or even more. Plan on changing the valve seals, decarbonizing pistons and changing the chain assembly in a very near future to be on the safe side.
Otherwise car runs smooth. What could possible be the cause of this small tremor?
How should I check the fuel trims via OBD2 scanner and what to look for?

Dont look too far, that's timing retard. Do it with the timing kit.

[Barola]

Have you looks at the plugs or coil packs?

In less than 1000km changed to new NGK spark plugs did the professional Wynns injector cleaning on their machine, cleaned intake valves, changed to Motul 5w30 engine oil. I have also checked again the rear PVC hose and throttle body and there is a lot of oil/mist.
In my opinion a lot of this oil/mist/vabors getting into combustion chamber are causing this small tremor...not sure.

[Barola]

Dont look too far, that's timing retard. Do it with the timing kit.

Thanks.

I am of similar opinion and conclusion as yours That is why I plan on getting completely new timing chain and intake valve seals job to be done in a near future all at once and forget about it for a longer period hopefully.