Anyone out there had any problems removing their locking wheel studs. Managed to loosen three of them this morning but the fourth was no go. The "key" which is supposed to engage on the top of the stud just keeps going round and round. Any hints or tips on how to remove the stud so I can get the wheel off. Tried my local tyre depot and they said try the main dealer. Have got it booked in but I expect it is gonna a be a long and expensive job!! So if anyone can suggest a better remedy that I could do myself please fire a way!!!
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Something similar happened to me - I'd had the tyre on that wheel changed and when the wheel was put back on I reckon they used a gun to tighten it and over did it so that it pulled up the collar of the bolt so that it was sitting too high and covering the bits that fit the notches for the key.
Some of the guys on here suggested the AA trick of hammering a smaller socket over the bolt to get a grip on it or there are reverse thread sockets you can use to grip the bolt (both methods will trash the bolt tho) - I tried the AA method but because of the way the collar had slipped up the bolt there was nothing to grip on to.
The tyre place admitted liability and paid for a guy at the scrap yard next door to spend 2 hours carefully chiselling the bolt out - the alternative was trying to drill out the bolt which would have risked more damage. The original locking bolts are a bit like cheese and prone to losing their "bite" , so I replaced them with a different set which I was lucky to buy from another forum member who had spares.
If the bolt is a gonner anyway I'd suggest trying the AA method - sacrifice the bolt and a socket but probably cheaper than some of the alternatives. Good Luck!
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Those air guns are a nightmare. Had to go to kwik fit to get them to remove my wheel when had a problem a year or so back
They used a long torsion bar... about 2 foot long! (Or if they did something else I didn't see it, and they didnt tell me) It worked, even tho I couldn't get any grip on the locking wheel nut
Then they tried to flog me some tyres LOL.
I see a lot of companys advertise the fact they don't use air guns nowadays.sigpicJog on Noddy
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lol that's not that long, Have a cheater bar that is about 5 foot long in my tool collection. Taking off is ok with the air impact wrench just not putting on and make sure they torque the bolts! Never use one on a locking bolt, just don't.Originally posted by cyclone
It is in the handbook. Satisfied.
Originally posted by Broda
I would rather teabag a bear trap
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First thing first, never use an Air gun on the locking nut. The force it puts on the nut is what causes the pins to fail in most cases. Second if your dealer/garage is using the Air gun on the nut then they are at fault for the damage caused.
The code sticker for the nut which is on the outside of the bag it arrives with should also be inside your service book to serve as a reminder and is clearly labelled to show that Air guns are not to be used.Last edited by Bigfeet; 05-12-2014, 15:43....I should never have doubted the Lord of Bacon!!
The DS3Club Bacon Appreciation Society
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Originally posted by Bigfeet View PostFirst thing first, never use an Air gun on the locking nut. The force it puts on the nut is what causes the pins to fail in most cases. Second if your dealer/garage is using the Air gun on the nut then they are at fault for the damage caused.
The code sticker for the nut which is on the outside of the bag it arrives with should also be inside your service book to serve as a reminder and is clearly labelled to show that Air guns are not to be used.62 Reg DS3 DStyle Plus - Sport Red with Black Roof
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Originally posted by Phil H View PostMoot point as I would expect the service book to be looked at last to be given the stamp by the eye candy in service reception?
Still a Servicing agents should also be 'savy' enough to understand the fragile nature of locking nuts in general....I should never have doubted the Lord of Bacon!!
The DS3Club Bacon Appreciation Society
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