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  • Windscreen Washer stopped

    Is it a single motor for both the front and rear washer?

    yesterday I noticed my rear washer wasn't working but I'm sure the front was, now neither is working and there is no sound of the pump working.

    Anybody had this before ie is it a known fault, 2010 THP. Would I be right in thinking the pump is behind the front right hand headlamp? If so (or if not) is it an easy fix.

    Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Check the fuse first.
    I'm sure it's a micro fuse

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    • #3
      Originally posted by gatesy0093 View Post
      Check the fuse first.
      I'm sure it's a micro fuse
      Its a 10A under the bonnet, well that's the nearest in the handbook which says wipe/washer although the wipers work ok. It looks blown although I'm loath to test any others in case they blow and I'm left without something important working when 60 mins drive from civilisation. Il have a hunt around Calais in the morning before traveling back.
      http://www.ds3club.co.uk/showthread....rs-not-working
      I think this sums it up.

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      • #4
        Used to be a common fault back in 2010/2011 when we had some chilly winters.

        You'll be fine replacing it with a 15A, they seem to be a bit more robust.
        cyclone> Fish is the man

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Dangerousfish View Post
          Used to be a common fault back in 2010/2011 when we had some chilly winters.

          You'll be fine replacing it with a 15A, they seem to be a bit more robust.
          Makes sense as we have had -4c most mornings when ive driven off. If it was the motor I would have driven to the Citroen dealership near Saint Omar and picked on up no doubt cheaper than the UK. Might have pushed my French beyond its current boundaries of sexy chit-chat and ordering food.

          Anyway, ive warned my daughter off that she may spend the 60 min journey to Calais tomorrow morning hanging out the passenger window pouring water over the screen ha ha ha ha.

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          • #6
            Had this happen a few weeks ago during a cold snap to mine. Replaced the fuse and all OK, and now keeping a spare in the glove compartment.

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            • #7
              The fuse normally blows due to the water in the reservoir freezing, so shove plenty of additive in.

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              • #8
                Forgot about this thread, put in a 15A fuse and all is good.

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                • #9
                  I went with a 15a fuse after mine blew on a snowy morning on my way to Jamie's a few years back......
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    Nothing to do with the fuse strength put the additive in the washer bottle. Ice in the bottle blocks the pipe so the pump is dry and blows the fuse. Increase the fuse and burn out the motor. Common denominator here is that it only happens in freezing weather.

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                    • #11
                      Erm not quite true, my washer bottle always contains screen wash (either pre-mixed or concentrate mixed to the correct proportions), despite that when it's cold the water at the very end of the washer tube seems to freeze. Not sure if that's a result of being so close to the open air or not. The water in the actual bottle was always liquid, a previous car had heated washer nozzles to overcome this issue

                      With the 15a fuse I can check the washer jets with a quick tweak and if they're frozen wait for them to defrost, with the 10a fuse it tended to blow before you could determine that they were frozen...
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        On the early models this was so common it wasn't funny but no one ever complained of burnt motors after putting in 15A fuses.
                        Originally posted by cyclone
                        It is in the handbook. Satisfied.
                        Originally posted by Broda
                        I would rather teabag a bear trap

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Old Bloke View Post
                          Nothing to do with the fuse strength put the additive in the washer bottle. Ice in the bottle blocks the pipe so the pump is dry and blows the fuse. Increase the fuse and burn out the motor. Common denominator here is that it only happens in freezing weather.
                          How exactly will putting additive in the washer bottle prevent the jet washing nozzles from freezing over? If anything, the easiest solution is just to cover them for a few seconds with your thumbs to allow the ice to melt that's in the nozzle.

                          There's the possibility of blowing your motor using a standard/lower rated fuse too - That doesn't mean we need to scaremonger people in to not using them
                          cyclone> Fish is the man

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                          • #14
                            My dealer also recommended a larger fuse when I mentioned it at the next service
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              I can only talk from my experience of building high end watercooled PCs for well over 15 years, so, a dry pump will burn out (eventually) but will not cause a power spike. However a pump with forced reduced flow MAY cause an excessive power draw which CAN pop a fuse, certainly a low amperage one.

                              It was common practice in the olden days to replace all 13 amp fuses with 5 amp versions, this would save a PC if a power spike was caused by external (from the mains) or internal (from either the PSu or a component).
                              Now the PSUs are considerably more advance and will (quality models at least) switch off or reset if a spike (or dip) is sensed.

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