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  • Wheel Squeel?

    Hi everyone!

    Was wondering if anyone could help...

    Over the past week or so I've noticed a squeak/squeal coming from the front wheels (maybe one wheel) - and it goes away if I apply the brakes (even slightly)

    I replaced the pads a few months back so I don't think it's the pads, the discs however do have a bit of a lip on them, does anyone know what it could be?

    A quick google and people seem to be mentioning bearings? Could it be this? and if it is, would it be under warranty, or would it be wear and tear?

    Thanks!
    Chris

  • #2
    Sounds like brakes to me, a pad (or pads) sticking.

    Were the pads a tight fit in the calipers? They should be able to slide freely; it's often necessary to file the edges of replacement pads to ensure a good sliding fit. Are the caliper pins moving freely?

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by DaveB View Post
      Sounds like brakes to me, a pad (or pads) sticking.

      Were the pads a tight fit in the calipers? They should be able to slide freely; it's often necessary to file the edges of replacement pads to ensure a good sliding fit. Are the caliper pins moving freely?
      Thats what I was going to say you beat me to it Dave
      Originally posted by cyclone
      It is in the handbook. Satisfied.
      Originally posted by Broda
      I would rather teabag a bear trap

      Comment


      • #4
        was any copper grease applied to the back of the pads when fitted ? or mite just be some dust inbetween the caliper and pad. or the above as mentioned

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mattds3sport View Post
          was any copper grease applied to the back of the pads when fitted ? or mite just be some dust inbetween the caliper and pad. or the above as mentioned
          As matt said copper grease on back of pads

          Wheeler Dealers good for tips like this (BIG fan of the show)
          http://www.ds3club.co.uk/attachment....4&d=1420569803
          :rolleyes: Too Good For Heaven & Too Bad For Hell :mad:

          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
            There's no need for copper grease on the back of brake pads.

            Look at your OE pads. Have they got copper grease on them? Do they squeal?

            Copper grease on the mating surfaces between pads & caliper will help prevent the pads seizing in place, a common cause of the type of noise (known in the industry as "twitter") described here.

            Squeal is produced by vibration at the interface between the pad & the disc. Manufacturers take two approaches to squeal - firstly, if possible eliminate it by modification to the friction material formulation or by altering the pad geometry (e.g. chamfering the pad), secondly, by preventing the vibration being transmitted & amplified by the rest of the braking system by treating the back of the pad - a number of cures are used, such as rubber paint, plastic shims, metal shims.

            The problem with aftermarket pads is that they aren't tested on every vehicle application, so a pad that's quiet on one car may squeal like a pig on another; during the development phase of a car the OE pad supplier, brake manufacturer & vehicle manufacturer work together to optimise all aspects of braking performance, including noise (but they don't do it on rusty discs!).

            Comment


            • #7
              I always use copper grease when I change my pads and or discs
              sigpic

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              • #8
                Originally posted by lfcrule1972 View Post
                I always use copper grease when I change my pads and or discs
                +1 on this

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've never used copper grease on the back of pads. The only car I've ever had brake squeal on was a Mk2 Cortina GT; the reason for that was that a previous owner had not refitted the anti-squeal shims; fitting the shims cured it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the replies everyone!

                    DaveB/cyclone -now that you mention it the pads did seem a little tight - think I might pop them out and take a look. It does just sound like the pad isn't being allowed to travel back properly, which is why I think the squeal stops when I apply the breaks

                    If I'm honest I didn't even check the pins when I fitted the pads, will have a look at these too.

                    I didn't use copper grease but I used 'Pagid Cera-Tec Brake Lube' this time round as I was told its better because it doesn't conduct heat? Wasn't entirely convinced but because it was the same price as copper grease I thought I would give it a go anyway

                    I do get the feeling that it isn't the back of the pad squealing against the caliper though, but more so the face of the pad against the disc. It sounds like the kind of dull squeal you hear when a bus or lorry is braking, except it isn't when I'm braking !

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I do not put anything on the back of the pads but do put a molybdenum disulfide dry film lubricant on the pins.
                      Originally posted by cyclone
                      It is in the handbook. Satisfied.
                      Originally posted by Broda
                      I would rather teabag a bear trap

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DaveB View Post
                        There's no need for copper grease on the back of brake pads.

                        Look at your OE pads. Have they got copper grease on them? Do they squeal?

                        Copper grease on the mating surfaces between pads & caliper will help prevent the pads seizing in place, a common cause of the type of noise (known in the industry as "twitter") described here.

                        Squeal is produced by vibration at the interface between the pad & the disc. Manufacturers take two approaches to squeal - firstly, if possible eliminate it by modification to the friction material formulation or by altering the pad geometry (e.g. chamfering the pad), secondly, by preventing the vibration being transmitted & amplified by the rest of the braking system by treating the back of the pad - a number of cures are used, such as rubber paint, plastic shims, metal shims.

                        The problem with aftermarket pads is that they aren't tested on every vehicle application, so a pad that's quiet on one car may squeal like a pig on another; during the development phase of a car the OE pad supplier, brake manufacturer & vehicle manufacturer work together to optimise all aspects of braking performance, including noise (but they don't do it on rusty discs!).
                        beg your pardon for speaking ! its a fkin suggestion

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mattds3sport View Post
                          beg your pardon for speaking ! its a fkin suggestion
                          Wow.. And so was DaveB's..

                          He wasn't being hostile at all in his post.
                          cyclone> Fish is the man

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mattds3sport View Post
                            beg your pardon for speaking ! its a fkin suggestion
                            Disagreeing with a post & attempting to explain the reasons for that disagreement can in no way be construed as an attack on the poster; sorry if you somehow saw it as such.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well...

                              I've had a good luck at the pads & pins.. The pins seem to be moving fine, the bottom pins without any resistance, the top ones with a little resistance, as I noticed the top pins have some kind of rubber seal on them so I guess its expected? - re-greased them anyway just to make sure

                              The pads themselves seem quite free to move as well so I'm stumped :/

                              Might just have to pop to the dealers...

                              Also looks like I might need to get rid of the locking nuts as they seem to be slipping when tightening (haven't overdone them either! )

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