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Hi guys,
So what with WTF leaving Joni's possession tomorrow, we've spent most of the day removing all the little extra's that went into making her unique.
As part of this, I've stripped out the sub & amp setup that we added a few months ago. As I didn't take any pictures at the time I've taken some during the removal process so that some of you can hopefully follow these steps and fit your own sub & amp rather than paying somebody to do it for you.
Disclaimer:
I don't profess to know what I'm doing when tinkering with cars. In fact, the majority of the time I just make it up as I
go along.
If any injury or damage occurs because of the changes you're making; both DS3Club and Myself take no responsibility for your mistakes.
Guide:
Gather together the tools that you'll need. For the DS3, I used the following:
-Electrical tape
-Flat head screwdriver
-Wire strippers
-Headunit removal tool
-Pliers
Wiring:
I picked up a pre-cut set of wires from amazon but if you've inherited these from somewhere else you'll need:
-Speaker Wire
-Power wire
-Ground wire
-Signal/Radio wire
-L&R RCA Cable
Bear in mind you'll be running all of the above except the ground wire from the front of the vehicle to the back, so make
sure you have a long enough cable for each.
You'll also want to pick yourself up a high-low level frequency convertor. Again, I picked one up for under £10 from
Amazon here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speaker-Converter-High-Line-Level/dp/B004UA753G/ref=sr_1_2
1. Pop the bonnet & disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
2. Once disconnected, connect one end of the power cable to your positive battery connector.
2.5 If your power cable doesn't already have a fuse connected, connect one now as near to the battery as possible.
3. Now comes the most difficult step throughout this process. You'll need to thread the power cable through the car's firewall and into the boot.
To do this, start by removing the guard in front of your drivers side firewall -
With the guard removed you'll want to find somebody with tiny hands to reach through the gap behind your strut to locate a rubber grommet (it may be easier to feel for this through the drivers footwell).
4. Using a screwdriver, poke a hole in one of the smaller holes inside of this grommet - I couldn't get a picture of this stage simply due to how much of a faff it is. Sorry.
5. With your power cable now threaded through the firewall, remove the trim from the floor next to the drivers seat simply by pulling upwards gently and continue to run your power cable towards the back of the car.
Electrics
6. Head back into the car and use your Headunit(HU) removal tool to take out the headunit.
7. Firstly you'll want to locate your HU's signal wire, this should be a thick blue wire to the right of the HU.
Splice this wire and join it to your signal wire.
8. Once your signal wire has been connected, attach your L & R RCA cables to your convertor and thread these cables through your headunit's trim.
9. Pay close attention to what you're doing with this next step as there are a lot of wires at the back of the HU that are the same colour.
The cables from your converter are going to attach to the following:
Converter / Headunit
Green - Green
Brown - Red
Grey - Yellow
Black - Purple
Both the green and the red wires from the headunit can be located in the upper drivers side corner as seen here:
The yellow and purple headunit wires are on the bottom row. There's two similar looking wires, you'll want to use the one that looks yellow, rather than beige
10. Tape up your wires ensuring no metal is left exposed.
11. Run your speaker cables and trigger cable through to the rear of the car. I ran mine via the passenger footwell and under the door trim again -
With all the wires in the boot, you should now have something that resembles this (albeit probably cleaner):
12. The penultimate step is to connect up your amplifier and subwoofer:
- Connect one of your remaining ground cable to the "GRD" port on your amplifier and ground this to an anchor in the boot (I used a luggage anchor and sanded off the paint to provide a solid ground).
- Connect your signal cable (blue) to the "REM" port on your amplifier & your power cable (red) to the "+12v" port on your amplifier.
13. The final step is to connect your speaker output to your amplifier and from your amplifier to your subwoofer. If your amplifier has multiple output's simply choose one and connect the corresponding L/R cable to your sub and amp.
And that's it. Total installation time should take you no more than 1.5hrs if you're comfortable around electronics. If not, I'd suggest consulting with somebody before cutting any wires.
Hopefully the above has been easy enough to follow, if not feel free to drop me a PM with any amendments you'd like to see made in future.
Cheers,
Dangerousfish
So what with WTF leaving Joni's possession tomorrow, we've spent most of the day removing all the little extra's that went into making her unique.
As part of this, I've stripped out the sub & amp setup that we added a few months ago. As I didn't take any pictures at the time I've taken some during the removal process so that some of you can hopefully follow these steps and fit your own sub & amp rather than paying somebody to do it for you.
Disclaimer:
I don't profess to know what I'm doing when tinkering with cars. In fact, the majority of the time I just make it up as I
go along.
If any injury or damage occurs because of the changes you're making; both DS3Club and Myself take no responsibility for your mistakes.
Guide:
Gather together the tools that you'll need. For the DS3, I used the following:
-Electrical tape
-Flat head screwdriver
-Wire strippers
-Headunit removal tool
-Pliers
Wiring:
I picked up a pre-cut set of wires from amazon but if you've inherited these from somewhere else you'll need:
-Speaker Wire
-Power wire
-Ground wire
-Signal/Radio wire
-L&R RCA Cable
Bear in mind you'll be running all of the above except the ground wire from the front of the vehicle to the back, so make
sure you have a long enough cable for each.
You'll also want to pick yourself up a high-low level frequency convertor. Again, I picked one up for under £10 from
Amazon here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speaker-Converter-High-Line-Level/dp/B004UA753G/ref=sr_1_2
1. Pop the bonnet & disconnect the positive terminal of the battery.
2. Once disconnected, connect one end of the power cable to your positive battery connector.
2.5 If your power cable doesn't already have a fuse connected, connect one now as near to the battery as possible.
3. Now comes the most difficult step throughout this process. You'll need to thread the power cable through the car's firewall and into the boot.
To do this, start by removing the guard in front of your drivers side firewall -
With the guard removed you'll want to find somebody with tiny hands to reach through the gap behind your strut to locate a rubber grommet (it may be easier to feel for this through the drivers footwell).
4. Using a screwdriver, poke a hole in one of the smaller holes inside of this grommet - I couldn't get a picture of this stage simply due to how much of a faff it is. Sorry.
5. With your power cable now threaded through the firewall, remove the trim from the floor next to the drivers seat simply by pulling upwards gently and continue to run your power cable towards the back of the car.
Electrics
6. Head back into the car and use your Headunit(HU) removal tool to take out the headunit.
7. Firstly you'll want to locate your HU's signal wire, this should be a thick blue wire to the right of the HU.
Splice this wire and join it to your signal wire.
8. Once your signal wire has been connected, attach your L & R RCA cables to your convertor and thread these cables through your headunit's trim.
9. Pay close attention to what you're doing with this next step as there are a lot of wires at the back of the HU that are the same colour.
The cables from your converter are going to attach to the following:
Converter / Headunit
Green - Green
Brown - Red
Grey - Yellow
Black - Purple
Both the green and the red wires from the headunit can be located in the upper drivers side corner as seen here:
The yellow and purple headunit wires are on the bottom row. There's two similar looking wires, you'll want to use the one that looks yellow, rather than beige
10. Tape up your wires ensuring no metal is left exposed.
11. Run your speaker cables and trigger cable through to the rear of the car. I ran mine via the passenger footwell and under the door trim again -
With all the wires in the boot, you should now have something that resembles this (albeit probably cleaner):
12. The penultimate step is to connect up your amplifier and subwoofer:
- Connect one of your remaining ground cable to the "GRD" port on your amplifier and ground this to an anchor in the boot (I used a luggage anchor and sanded off the paint to provide a solid ground).
- Connect your signal cable (blue) to the "REM" port on your amplifier & your power cable (red) to the "+12v" port on your amplifier.
13. The final step is to connect your speaker output to your amplifier and from your amplifier to your subwoofer. If your amplifier has multiple output's simply choose one and connect the corresponding L/R cable to your sub and amp.
And that's it. Total installation time should take you no more than 1.5hrs if you're comfortable around electronics. If not, I'd suggest consulting with somebody before cutting any wires.
Hopefully the above has been easy enough to follow, if not feel free to drop me a PM with any amendments you'd like to see made in future.
Cheers,
Dangerousfish
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