Anyone running the 'Motorsport' map on their THP?

[chiefnerd]

No probs at all, doing the PCV delete because it apparently makes the engine more responsive and also as a preventative measure- I do not want combusted oil all over my valves.

[Chris_Blue]

Yup. Well, no problems as far as my car hasn't blown up again yet.

What- no PCV delete FISH
What year was your engine manufactured?
CBLUE

[Jimbob]

Do you still set plug gaps the old way
With a pre gauged narrow piece of metal?
CBLUE

That's not the old way!
The old way was two thickesses of fag packet and tapped on the kerb until it was tight!

Jimbob

[Dangerousfish]

What- no PCV delete FISH
What year was your engine manufactured?
CBLUE

First one was 2010, current one is 2011.

[Chris_Blue]

First one was 2010, current one is 2011.

Thats interesting- so its not a problem on all cars- later the better
CBLUE

[pacsab]

Czar, thanks for this extensive explanation on spark plugs. Very nice!

Can you recommend any silver spark plugs for the DS3 THP 150?

I tried to look for, but could not find any so far.

Thanks.

[Czar]

Czar, thanks for this extensive explanation on spark plugs. Very nice!

Can you recommend any silver spark plugs for the DS3 THP 150?

I tried to look for, but could not find any so far.

Thanks.

BRISK have a range of Silver cored spark plugs, however when I and others supplied them around the world, we found a common fault, that they were not exactly suited to the resistance, as produced by the Bosch coil overs as fitted to the THP engines, and so we withdrew them, and went back to the drawing board, as I write this I am currently not aware of any other spark plug manufacturer producing a Silver cored spark plug for the THP range of engines, however I will check for you, and see where BRISK are at, in terms of anything for the future, your best bet for now is to use, the NGK: ILZKBR7A–8G

[chiefnerd]

Czar- do you reckon we'd really feel any actual difference by changing the plugs or is it just better for longevity?

[Czar]

Czar- do you reckon we'd really feel any actual difference by changing the plugs or is it just better for longevity?

In terms of the NKG: PLZKBR7A (Platinum) vs NGK: ILZKBR7A–8G (Iridium) from your butt dyno you won't feel any noticeable difference between the two variations, the Iridium offers greater resistance to the increased heat when you or your tuner turns up the boost, more boost = more heat, they both have the same working heat range (7) that said, as you will have read, Iridium is 6X harder and 8X stronger than Platinum, and 1 step above Platinum on the thermal and electrical conductivity chart, regardless of what your dealer/manufacturer tells you, you should always renew your spark plugs at the very minimum, annually, never mind all this 40,000 miles + before renewing your spark plugs, all the dealer/manufacturer is doing, is making their car model seem fantastic, due to it's low maintenance service schedules, but as well all know or should know, this is all in favour of the dealer/manufacturer, they offer you a TLC service package, for lets say £200.00 for lets say 3 years, and you think wow, that's my servicing taken care of for 3 years, hmmm really ? Annual mileage 12,000 per annum X 3 = 36,000 they advertise that your oil changes are now generally a minimum of 15–20,000 miles and spark plugs are now recommended to be changed approximately every 40,000 + and a paper air filter element will only be changed upon visual inspection at your first TLC service of 20,000 miles or 1 year 8 months if we calculate from the estimated annual mileage of 12,000 per annum, seems a bargain now, your £200.00 TLC package for 3 years!

£200.00 for 4.2 litres of oil (maybe 8.4 litres of oil based on 15,000 mile intervals) 1 maybe 2 oil filter element/s, and maybe a paper air filter element, a look over, a quick wash and vac, and hey presto what a bargain, this lengthy maintenance service schedule only works in favour of the dealer/manufacturer, not you.

[Chris_Blue]

Bought the IRIDIUM plugs and awaiting delivery
Anything I should know before fitting?
CBLUE

[Chris_Blue]

In terms of the NKG: PLZKBR7A (Platinum) vs NGK: ILZKBR7A–8G (Iridium) from your butt dyno you won't feel any noticeable difference between the two variations, the Iridium offers greater resistance to the increased heat when you or your tuner turns up the boost, more boost = more heat, they both have the same working heat range (7) that said, as you will have read, Iridium is 6X harder and 8X stronger than Platinum, and 1 step above Platinum on the thermal and electrical conductivity chart, regardless of what your dealer/manufacturer tells you, you should always renew your spark plugs at the very minimum, annually, never mind all this 40,000 miles + before renewing your spark plugs, all the dealer/manufacturer is doing, is making their car model seem fantastic, due to it's low maintenance service schedules, but as well all know or should know, this is all in favour of the dealer/manufacturer, they offer you a TLC service package, for lets say £200.00 for lets say 3 years, and you think wow, that's my servicing taken care of for 3 years, hmmm really ? Annual mileage 12,000 per annum X 3 = 36,000 they advertise that your oil changes are now generally a minimum of 15–20,000 miles and spark plugs are now recommended to be changed approximately every 40,000 + and a paper air filter element will only be changed upon visual inspection at your first TLC service of 20,000 miles or 1 year 8 months if we calculate from the estimated annual mileage of 12,000 per annum, seems a bargain now, your £200.00 TLC package for 3 years!

£200.00 for 4.2 litres of oil (maybe 8.4 litres of oil based on 15,000 mile intervals) 1 maybe 2 oil filter element/s, and maybe a paper air filter element, a look over, a quick wash and vac, and hey presto what a bargain, this lengthy maintenance service schedule only works in favour of the dealer/manufacturer, not you.

Thats why I didnt get a service package- they tried hard though
Saying that- still take it into them! Ha
Least I have the option
CBLUE

[Czar]

Bought the IRIDIUM plugs and awaiting delivery
Anything I should know before fitting?
CBLUE

A visual inspection should always be carried out, check for any visual signs of damage, and to make sure the electrode air gap is consistent between all 4 spark plugs, they have a preset gap straight out of the box, if any appear to have a closed electrode air gap, be very cautious, it is an indicator the spark plug has been dropped, so my advice is do NOT fit it, simply exchange it for another, NEVER EVER apply any anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads, this alters tightening torque values and affects the thermal heat dissipation ability of the spark plug outer shell to the cylinder head, and lastly and very important, ALWAYS apply the specific torque value to your spark plugs, in this case (23Nm) +/– (3Nm)

[Chris_Blue]

So I shouldnt just tighten it up- then give it a final tweak then:rolleyes:
CBLUE

[Czar]

So I shouldnt just tighten it up- then give it a final tweak then:rolleyes:
CBLUE

Most certainly not, NO, it's generally this "final tightening tweak" that breaks the gas tight seal between the spark plugs shell outer and the porcelain.

[bent-1]

Sorta on topic of the spark plugs , on my Dodge race engine 500+ hp I change the plugs during the day at the temp goes up then comes back down including humidity readings to run plugs suitable to current conditions.
Plugs on their own do make a difference.

cheers

Benton