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Hi guys newbie here and after purchasing my 2010 THP 3 weeks back it looks like its going to get expensive. Dont know if anyone can help me but on my way home last night it felt like there was no boost from the turbo. When i arrived home the engine was red hot but not reading in red on gauge..no EML on either. I did a fault check with my OBD2 Reader and it came up zero. Noticed coolant going down quick over last week or so but cant find any leaks or any signs of water pollution in the engine oil. Its at my local garage now but was wondering if anyone knows what it could be to prepare me for the worst.
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Update....what a waste of time that was, garage couldn't find anything wrong and because it wasn't bringing any fault codes up I should take it to the dealers. Still got no pull like it had and the engine was warm after only doing a mile...thought it was the turbo what was getting hot but the heat is coming off the exhaust manifold? to the right of the turbo...any ideas ANYONE...PLEASE!!!!! -
Not too knowledgeable about the THP but there are a lot of people here who are. Give them time to respond, not everyone is online every day
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THP engines run hot all the time, the turbo runs extremely hot, if it isn't hot then theres an issue.
@ The OP, you might want to change the title to something that is a little more informative, it might catch somebodies eye.sigpicComment
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Sounds like a turbo waste gate issue if no boost at all i know they have problems with the waste gate arm coming loose mine did when i first had it or it could be the recirc valve not working
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Well what can I say, drove her to the match yesterday still no boost. Came back to her after a great game and a win but still feeling pxxxed off and ready for a trip to the Citroen dealers Monday, started her up and set off....BOOOOOOSSSSTTT!!! Yep cant understand it, took her out for an hour and shes back to normal. Still worrying about that coolant loss though cant see any patches on drive but its gone from max line to min line over night.Comment
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Have a good look at the radiator front and back, top and bottom. If there are any white-ish deposits then that's where your leak is. The radiator would be my first guess as one small stone can easily bust a crack in it. Pretty sure mine has a micro-leak somewhere too but it takes about 6+ weeks to get from max to min.Originally posted by glennedb View PostComment
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I've not read the whole thread, just a very quick glance, coolant loss, is it actually a loss, or just a circulation air lock !!
If you've been topping up, and not bleeding the air from the system, there could well be an air lock within the thermostat housing, if the coolant temperature sensor is reading just from air lock vapour (steam) and not a coolant flow, this could trigger your boost loss issue !!
The drop from maximum to minimum overnight, with no visible coolant loss, suggests a cold/hot air lock expansion contraction.
Just a theory !!Performance Powered By Thought
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God spoke to soon its gone again while trawling round Sheffield looking for a car parking spot, the engine was getting pretty hot when we pulled up ..Czar where about do i bleed the system.Comment
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Any air trapped within a sealed coolant system needs to reach the highest point in the particular system, the coolant expansion tank is the highest point, therefore the easiest way to bleed any trapped air within a coolant system, is to remove the coolant expansion tank cap, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES REMOVE THE CAP WITH THE ENGINE AT WORKING TEMPERATURE, doing so, instantly boils the coolant from the effects of coolant boiling at 100°c 1 atmosphere, a coolant system is self pressurised to increase the temperature at which the coolant boils, run the engine at idle until the radiator cooling fan starts, wait for the radiator cooling fan to stop, do a visual of the coolant level, top up if necessary, then replace the cap, all the time leaving the engine idling.
Whilst performing the above, if coolant is continuously pushed out of the expansion tank, don't panic at first, trapped air may cause this issue, that said, the coolant being forced out, could also indicate another underlying problem, and that problem could be that the combustion pressure from one or more cylinders is leaking into the water coolant jackets which surround the four cylinders.
There is a very simple test for this, by performing a coolant pressure test or a cylinder leak down test, either test will indicate if this is the case, good luck.Performance Powered By Thought
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THP engines have a critical problem with the thermostatic valve (not sure if the translation is correct),and probably can cause this. I think they already made a recall, or a technical bulletin, about this problem.Comment
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Thanks for the help everyone..going to take it to a garage to get the system bled..im not brave enough to try it myself. By the way boost came back into effect 5 minutes into the journey home.Comment
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I had a similar issue recently with my 2010 DSport (coolant loss, that is) and I couldn't find it either from basic visible checks but after a little bit of head scratching it turned out to be a cracked thermostat housing. Changed that - no coolant loss now. Mind you, the connection at the bottom of the expansion tank weeps a little if the hose is moved so I still have a teeny loss of fluid.Comment
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I have the same issue but it's not really a problem as long as its checked & topped up periodically & as i check my oil level weekly it no trouble at allOriginally posted by StuG69 View Post
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Its booked in the garage tomorrow...sick of topping it up every other day.Comment
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