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One strange side effect since it's been in service: the temperature indicator is a bit to the left (cooler) side. Before it was always straight in the middle.
Similar to mine- but mines been slightly to the right, tadge over centre, ever since Ive had it (7 miles)
Have to form a new group LOL
Similar to mine- but mines been slightly to the right, tadge over centre, ever since Ive had it (7 miles)
Have to form a new group LOL
then I'm in! mine is just over to the right too and thats before and after the Temp Sensor was replaced. just curious though as to the Sensor in the pvc pipe and the inlet manifolds are not dirty with carbon/oil and this also has an effect on fueling.
^ ^ Assumed that the back dial, and the gauge pointer have always been slightly offset, when it came from the factory
It doesnt quite zero properly either, which can be seen first thing in morning on start up
Another year, another hesitation.. Brought my car in for it's second service yesterday after I mentioned the hesitation has come back. Yesterday evening, when I went back to pick up my car, they told me they didn't do the service, because they read the fault codes etc and they found that the inlet valves are getting clogged up again. So they have to wait for some spare parts (whatever that can be? hopefully they mean a walnut blasting machine) and will be cleaning the valves later this week. Just in time, because my warranty runs out this weekend (it's only 2 years over here..).
So, in conclusion, will this mean I'll have to get the inlet valves cleaned every year? I'm afraid it seems so Hope I can talk to a mechanic later this week to ask what exactly they did, and what that would cost me in the future..
Mines in for its second service at the moment too- inlet valves were only done 5 month ago, and they've found several fault codes, ignition related.
Not so sure I will make that final payment next year, now.
I agree. Might be my last summer with a DS3 then
We'll see.
(Its called doing a David LOL)
Dunno what's up then with your cars. After I changed internals, run 1.5bars and WMI with E85 I have so far no clogging issues. Must be alcohol and boost that cleans them
Citroën DS3 Racing 2011 Polar White
ZRP con rods, Wössner pistons, Forge Ind. Kit, Forge IC hard pipes, etuners S3 (E85, launch control), Clemens-Motorsport IC, cylinder head porting, oil pump mod, Devils Own WMI, Forge BOV, Powerflex rear engine mount, LEDs, Citroen mudflaps, Ragazzon de-cat/200cc sports cat, Mongoose catback
Ex: BMW M135iA (2008) * BMW M3 E46 SMG2 (2003) * Subaru Impreza WRX STi (2007) * BMW M3 E46 (2001) * Seat Leon 1.8 TS4 (2003)
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Just read that whole thread, hoping some of you are still on here. I've just bought a thp 150, 61 plate with 38,000, already spoken to Jamie at sp tuning who informed me of the carbonising valves. I too have a hesitation intermittently, felt in 2nd and 3rd.
I have extended warranty. Wonder if I could get it sorted with that?
Anyone actually get it cleaned properly through warranty?
Have seen Afew people talk about things you can do to slow this problem the best being an oil catcher of some type as well as higher octane fuel. Not sure I understand how the fuel makes a difference as it doesn't come into contact with the valves.
Can anyone explain the oil catcher idea how to go about it and what's needed etc?
Have a search on the forum for 'catch can' as there were a number of posts (some of which talked about fitting them as well) a while back.
From my limited understanding the catch can is supposed to catch the oily gunk (whilst in mist form) and stop that sitting on the valves etc. You then pour the crap away when the can is full. It doesn't catch all the rubbish so you will still end up needing a walnut blast or clean but I think it was supposed to extend the time between cleans...
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