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Not done it yet, plan on just getting springs, and only 25/30. Don't fancy paying for coilovers just yet.
But I have found some spax springs for £100 so might be a nice DIY project, watched some youtube videos and doesn't look too tricky, of might just pay a garage as I cant see it being too expensive.
But first I need to refinance my car and change insurance company that allows mods.
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Originally posted by Chris_Bleu View PostSame as me in relation to lowering- its one of the big ones for knackering a warranty tho. Same as any visible engine mod
Had to change to Admiral for mods on the 150, and stayed with them
Theyre pretty good with changes- actually gave me money back for changing address
I might give admiral a call and get a quote, hopefully they wont rape me, only paying £550 this year with quotemehappy..
Slight update: fitted my 'mud' guards, and almost talked my dad in to giving me a lift with lowering springs xD
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Originally posted by Rickzayne View PostFrom what I understand, the warranty is only invalid if the mod has caused the fault.
IE- Tightened suspension could have an impact on the engine, make it work outside of set tolerances or some BS like that
Best mods are those that cant be seen or even detetcted
But of course, all that are out of warranty can mod to their hearts desire
When I did the exhaust, went in an talked to the dealers and they said it would be OK. Suppose the proof in the pudding is only in the eating though
Good Luck with AdmiralsigpicJog on Noddy
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I need a new amp fused power cable for my car... I just don't know which to get -.- the orginal one has a massive fuse in but the ones I can see online look like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/800W-60A-6...-/200899641942
Does it look right.. or should I just buy from halfrauds which cost more....
I only need the power cable as I cut it in half when I took it out of my old car....
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As long as the wire gauge and amp rating of the fuse are what you require. Physical size of the fuse doesn't matter just its amp rating and if its slow or fast blowing.Originally posted by cyclone
It is in the handbook. Satisfied.
Originally posted by Broda
I would rather teabag a bear trap
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Okay thanks xD
I am going to copy this post I think - http://ds3club.co.uk/showthread.php?...l=1#post102921
But I am not sure if I should sink the sub in to the spare wheel void and take out the puncture kit, I build up a false floor above the original....
If I did sink the sub in to the spare wheel area I would put clear plastic over the top so that I can still use the boot area, but cut holes so that the amp can breath....
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So I took apart my old sub from my last car (http://ds3club.co.uk/showthread.php?...ll=1#post34832)
This probably took 1.5 hours?
But I am waiting on my power cable from ebay for the amp, and I still need to buy the connects2 lead http://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/advan...=18&search.y=9
does anyone have one that works and they are selling...?
Then there is the task of wrapping the ply wood in material (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACOUSTIC-G...60823996332%26)
sooo... maybe 2/3 weeks? and I might have it finished....Attached Files
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Okay, what is non-standard about it?Daron Brewood
DS3 Sport Plus - 'Yellow Hawk'
CEO smartphonegurus.com
Phone: HTC One, Nokia Lumia 920 / 925
Cars: Mark II Cortina > Hillman Avenger > Datsun 120Y > Morris Ital > BL Maestro > Hyundai coupé > Rover 25 > MG ZR > Peugeot 307CC > 207 > 207CC > Citroen DS3 Sport+
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