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Big mistake on ds3's oil sump It can and will eventually ruin your turbo.. :)
Big mistake on ds3's oil sump It can and will eventually ruin your turbo..
Euro car parts do one for my 2011hdi
Home > Car Parts > Engine Parts > Engine Parts > Sump Pans & Plugs
Aftermarket Engine SumpPart No.: 332735080 List Price £113.54
Was £61.38
Now £43.14 Save 30%
Home > Car Parts > Engine Parts > Engine Parts > Sump Pans & Plugs
Aftermarket Engine SumpPart No.: 332735080 List Price £113.54
Was £61.38
Now £43.14 Save 30%
Need someone to buy one to see if its recessed or not- or go the the supplier and get a photo of it
Then see what other models it fits
Decent price
Nice you found out where you can get it.. It should be the same for All ds3 from the Start to the facelift model in 2015..
Besides that yes you can suck the oil out, and yes there is product called oil cleaner in Denmark you put it in your engine let it work for half and hour With the car on turn of the car and take the oil of it cleans everything..
When I was a Young Git there was a product called ’flushing oil’ which was supposed to clean out your engine prior to putting in new oil. It was just a thin oil which you put in and ran for 15 minutes, and then drained it off and chucked it away.
This was in the pre turbo days so there were no very hot components fed by the pressurised oil circulation system. Even so there was an opinion that it might result in bearing damage if left in for too long, and I never used it.
As I understand it turbos become very hot, very quickly and rely on a good supply of the correct oil to conduct heat away from the shaft and bearings. I will therefore not be circulating any flushing product in my engine!
Again, back in the day, we were advised to let turbo engines tick over for a while after a hot run to allow the turbo to cool sufficiently so that the oil did not carbonise on the shaft and bearings.
That advice no longer seems to apply, and that’s because the THP has an electric water pump which supplies the turbo after the engine is stopped ‘To prevent excessive build-up of heat in the oil- and water-cooled turbocharger after the engine has been stopped, an additional electrical water pump starts automatically as soon as the car comes to a standstill, dissipating any excess thermal energy from the system’.
I can see that a failure of that system could result in turbo bearing damage, but providing that the engine oil and filter are changed at least as often as the manufacturer states, I can see no point in going to the trouble of changing the oil pan.
As always - just my opinion!
Bog standard 2010 DSport THP150, 1973 Clan Crusader, 2003 Harley Davidson Softail, 2007 Vespa 250GTS, 2011 Peugeot Boxer campervan ,a few push bikes, and one eMTB
Mine packed in a while back, no fault on dash though logged into ECU. Car was in getting looked at when dealer found the pump was showing an error. Replaced under warranty. Best check the turbo coolant pump from time to time.
Run car up to normal operating temp, turn off engine remove keys. Goto front of car and listen through the grill for the pump running.
Take your point(s) Owd Git, but best to check the sump pan out when doing an oil change- i mean whats there to loose? all to gain if it prevents problems
A flush is a good idea, but that wouldnt clear the heavy muck at the bottom would it?
Not sure how many bolts on the sump, but it cant be that bad
Had a BMW 3.20 a while back, and you couldnt get the sump pan out without dropping the axle
Sump is theoretically easy to take off, but the RTV sealant that's used to bond it can be tough to split. I've seen sumps completely wrecked after removal.
White on red THP
Miltek exhaust with HKS highflow cat, Forge intercooler, hard pipe kit, induction kit, oil catch tank, , VAG BOV, Stage 3 SPT remap 217 BHP
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